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"Around the World in Analogue" is your bite-size guide to the most amazing travel destinations across the globe, as documented by the members of the Lomography community. Today, lomographer Peter Stadler (@evilpete) treks the Dolomites in northern Italy.
In December 2016, I started shooting a roll of LomoChrome Purple XR, loaded in my Olympus OM10 (set at 200iso). When I finished the roll, I then re-loaded it and randomly shot it again, completing it just a few days ago. The lovely people at Colourstream developed and scanned it for me.. It's our year in film.
We've been fans of Brian Bruno, or @brunoroids work ever since he showed us some fantastic rolls of our favorite films like the LomoChrome Purple and Lomo F2. He uses all kinds of analog gear, and wanted to take the Neptune Convertible Art Lens System for a spin. Check it out!
Héctor Ges is a photographer and art director from Barcelona. In this interview, he shares his thoughts as well as some photos of his road trip to Navarra, Spain.
Channeling the photographers of the Provoke-era, Sydney-based photographer Meg Hewitt captures the hustle and bustle of the people of Tokyo. The famous aesthetic continues to be alive in contemporary Japan.
First try with a Splitzer (homemade), yay ! I tried this technique a few years ago, just using my hand to block half of the frame but they were just snaps and did not yield anything interesting. After seeing a lot examples here, and especially from Yoshitaka Goto, I was inspired to create something more thought-through. When I do multiple exposures/conceptual stuff, I usually shoot a dozen or so of frames (and many more clicks) because each really turn differently and I want to have a broad choice of photos to pick from. Here, since the locations for top and bottom part of image were not the same (15mn drive, not that bad) I used a couple of tricks to get more photos out of one travel. First, I used two different cameras and shot half a frame in the room with one camera then another one with the second camera. Then I went to the pond with both cameras and completed the bottom of the frames in them. Still at the pond, the second trick is that I then advanced the film on both camera and shot the bottom part of a new frame. Then I went back to the room and shot the upper part. That's four final photos for one travel. I ended up doing another run the next day and ended up with 8 photos to choose from. Splitzers seem to be somewhat rare on the second-hand market and they are expensive to buy brand new so I made my own with a soft-ish plastic cap that was lying around. I just cut it in half with scissors. I did not cut exactly in the middle so one half is a bit larger than the other and the edge is curved. I've noticed that with a separation exactly in the middle of the front of the lens, you can see more than half the photo in the viewfinder, as if the light is bending. It means that upper and bottom part will not just be put next to one-another but will overlap in the center and merge nicely. I guess I could use the big or small half of the cap to play with the amount of overlapping. I wanted to keep the same perspective in both part of the image to get a realistic rendering. You'd have to stick with the same focal length and 24mm was used for the top part but since it's a bit tricky/wide to handle I used a 28mm for the bottom part. The small difference shouldn't be too detrimental. I also made sure to use a similar angle (from eye level) to shoot both part and again ensure a realistic effect. Also since the time allowed by the self-timer was a bit short to jump in the bed, arrange the blanket and get in the desired position, I used and external mechanical self-timer that I initially got for my P67. Coupled with the use of the self-timer, it allowed me more than double the time to set things up.
